MachuPicchu & the Galapagos 2019
Part B-2: MachuPicchu
This was one of the reasons we all made this trip, and we were not disappointed. We, of course, were not alone, so my advice to those of you who plan to visit MaPi in the future: Take advantage of the early bus system and get in early and leave as late as you can. There ARE no bathrooms past the gates, so it's not like you can spend 10 hours on site; it self-regulates that way (i.e., no in-and-out privileges!).
From Aguas Calientes, the bus sidewinds up the mountain several thousand feet, where you are unceremoniously dumped at the end of the line. It's intimidating at first because of the number of people. When we first went up after lunch, we saw those starting their day and those in line to take the bus back down the hill. Fortunately, once you hit the baños, the line to get into MaPi is short.
Our OAT guide, Manuel, was in his element here. Not only has he been on site hundreds of times, but he's well-versed in the history, culture and geology of the site. You're not supposed to be on site without a guide, and you can pick one up before you enter. I doubt any are as good as Manuel!
Few places I've visited can be called magical; this is one. I'm not here to tell you much (that's what Google is for), so I'll just share photographs. A sub-group on day two did the hike to the Sun Gate, which is recommended. I didn't make it because my cold (and the altitude) kept my expectations realistic; I regret not making the effort. At least I should have gone up on an early bus and done what I could do. Oh, well.
Two of our intrepid travelers, Sherry & Leeanne, hiked down the mountain rather than wait for the bus ride (which can be somewhat intimidating, but not as harrowing as I was led to believe). Either way, you end up back in the tourist trap town, Aguas Calientes, which has been renamed MachuPicchu Pueblo by the government. The Frommer's Guide describes it best:
Aguas Calientes is quite literally the end of the line. It's a gringo outpost of mochileros (backpackers) outfitted in the latest alpaca and indigenous weave fashions...they are walking advertisements of Peruvian artisanship. Making it Peru's own little Katmandu, the trekkers hang out for a few days after their great journey to MachuPicchu, sharing beers and tales, and scoring a final woven hat or scarf, or at least a celebratory tee-shirt to wear as a trophy back home.
To be honest, there's not much else to do in Aguas Calientes...a purpose-built jumble of cheap construction and a blur of pizza joints, souvenir stalls and hostales, it's a place tourism officials would probably like a do-over on. But if you squint hard enough, and your legs are tired enough, you might just find a little ramshackle charm in it.
We arrived amid a religious ceremony (The Virgin de Carmen's Fiesta), but I'm convinced these celebrations are on-going, and the locals are all actors on one great stage. There was singing and dancing and parades through the streets. The food was good; the souvenirs expensive. Yet, it did not diminish the magic of the mountains.
